Estella wasn’t such a fun town. The only nice thing is Iglesia San Pedro. We had a terrible dinner; how badly can you stuff up a salad? Marcel’s paella came out of a packet. We left very early in the morning which turned out a good thing as it became very hot during the day. We walked through plains with no shade most of the day.

The fuente del vino at Monosterio de Irache was not open as we came through before 08:00. It was beautiful though but probably a good thing not to have wine at 08:00 in the morning. It was a pity to see most of the monastery in ruins as there were no more novitiates to support it.

In Azqueta we stopped for breakfast and had great cafe con lache with a sort of toasted sandwich with gamon and cheese. Just before Villa Mayor we past the 13th century Fuente de los Moros which is a beautiful building. We also passed the Itialian couple of which the girl is beautiful but her knee started giving her problems and she was struggling.

After a stop for Aquarius (thanks Marc) and water at the fuente we left the village. Marcel has his earphones in going down a steep path with 2 mountain bikers coming from the rear. They kept shouting to pass but Marcel was oblivious to the world outside his iPod. From a distance I could hear them shouting which was very funny.

We now have a long stretch of nearly 9km through remote farmland and vineyards with no shade and water. I’m really having a tough day today and my right foot is sore. When I eventually take off my shoe it’s swollen like a balloon. Francois gave me the advise to lie with my legs in the air which is exactly what I did after my shower for over an hour and that was the best advise.

We make it to Los Arcos and enter from the north. From this side it looks like a crappy town. Marcel is way ahead of me and I turn off at albergue Austria because I think they stopped there. That was good as that albergue would not be on my recommended list. I find quite a few peregrinos in the delightful town squire where I slog down half a litre of Aquarius. It’s the Spanish version of Energade.

According to the guide book Casa de la Abuela not even 50m from the town square is excellent which turns out to be the case. We were told by the owner we’re not allowed to do our own washing but pay her 50c and she will. I was not going to complain. We shared the room with an older Belgium gentleman which we met the first day from St Jean and he has been walking from Belgium.

Today 10/12 we walked from Los Arcos to Viana. Overcast most of the day with rain drops here and there. It’s now after 22:00 as I write this and there is a massive Highveld like thunderstorm happening. I had my first great day. Although my feet still hurt ag the end of the day I was comfortable walking. In Toros del Rio we visit the exquisite 13th century Iglesia Santo de Sepulcro which is octagonal and small and where Irishman Martin sings for us. Great coffee at the albergue after that before heading out again. Lots of vineyards today as we’re heading towards La Rioja. Our aim for today is Viana where it turns out the main albergue is closed today and Thursday. We have to head back the way we came for the only open albergue but it’s new and clean and we end up having a 6 bed room all by ourselves which is fantastic after having to share with anything between 6 and 130 people. We were also not going to pay €70 for the only hotel in town.

Dinner was great and we shared a table with Paige and her mother Cindy from Boston. Lots of laughter and great company. They’re treating themselves to the hotel for the night. We will see what tomorrow brings.