I’m flying to Barcelona as I write this and leaving the Camino. It started to rain just as we caught the bus to the airport. Quite unreal to see the Camino go past the bus windows and the trip took about 35 minutes. On Monday we walked past the airport into Santiago and for us it was at least another hour and a half walk into town from the airport.

We went to the pilgrims mass in the cathedral on Tuesday and a nun sang and the organ played. The priest read off the nationalities of pilgrims who completed the Camino the previous day. He mentions how many of each nationality started where and there was only one South African who completed the Camino from St Jean Pied de Port – proud moment.

It still hasn’t sunk in that I’ve done it. Even sitting through the mass it was an unreal feeling. The Monday evening before dinner we went to the cathedral and that was a special moment.

Two nights in a row we ended up in a little tapas bar round the corner from where we stayed. Great tapas and with much laughter and recollections. After tapas last night we went to a bar where Jonas, Robin and Frank were able to watch football. The fact that I don’t have a 22:00 curfew at the albergue and I don’t have to get up, pack my backpack and leave by 08:00 and then walk for at least 7 hours ensured that too much beers were consumed. However no hangover from that I just fell asleep immediately.

This morning Jonas woke up with a full blown cold and had to spend most of the day in bed. Robin and I spent walking round the city and I found the book on the Camino which I was looking for. We met Sabine from NZ and David from Australia in another great tapas bar. I met Sabine and her friends in Burgos and since then we’ve walked into each other along the way. From Sarria the kids of her friends Rachelle and Sedrick joined them; the eldest 12 and the youngest 8 for the last 110km’s. Apparently the 8 year old doesn’t like shoes so by mid morning he was walking bare foot. Whilst standing in the bar I saw four more people from early days and that have completed their Camino’s. It has been sad not to run into Sam again. It was good to say “hasta luego” to these people.

Today is a day of too many “hasta luegos”. This morning we saw off Frank, Laura and Martí who flew to London. Jonas and Robin are sitting next to me on the plane to Barcelona. They will stay at the airport as they have an early morning flight to Münich and Mark is fetching me. I stay two more days in Barcelona. So another “hasta luego” coming up which I’m not looking forward to.

So here I am; in Santiago after just completing the Camino de Santiago and about 800km’s later. Mixed emotions today as the walk into Santiago was boring. There was however no rain until we got to Monte de Gozo when the heavens opened up and the rest of the Camino was in a torrential downpour. I did not see the cathedral until we were about half a kilometre away when it cleared all of a sudden and there were the towers.

Gratitude for my (and our) safe arrival was my emotion. I think it will hit me when we go to the pilgrims mass tomorrow. We are lucky that we are the “last” of the pilgrims for the season as the square was empty and we had time to look around and take photo’s. Three of us started in St Jean Pied de Port and the three of us acknowledged our Camino’s with a hug and a look. I got my Compostella with my name in Latin.

The emotions after that was I’m cold, wet, need a shower and I’m hungry. We found a little hotel off the square and the first three have been take care of and now I need food.

We had sun today for the first time in three days. The rain was constant and relentless. Do not buy a cheap poncho; invest in a good one. I had to upgrade a couple of days ago and at €6 it was worth the money. We walked through beautiful forests where we were shielded from some of the rain. However after 27km’s it’s not funny anymore. And that distance we covered two days in a row with quite a few hills in between. It always seems as if the last hill is the one before the albergue. Gatvol is dan ‘n mooi beskrywing.

The last 300km’s with Robin and Jonas have been fun; and laughter is the best medicine. It has been a different Camino than the first 500km. I cherish both and am grateful. I am fit and have no issues with feet or anything else. My German has improved as well. LOL. A roof over our heads, hot shower and the promise of a cold cerveza and vino tinto later makes huge difference. The joke now is “what is a few km’s between friends”. I’ve never eaten so much chocolate as of late. At the end of the day Jonas always asks who wants chocolate and from somewhere a slab appears. The six of us always end up together at the end of the day.

In Palas de Rei we ended up in town with the only open albergue. The guide book warns that it’s run down but it’s nearly dark and raining so we chose to stay. Laura and Frank wisely chose a small hotel. The showers and toilets are not very clean but we make do. As we head out for supper a “real” Peregrino comes into our room. He looks like he has been on the road for a long time. When we get back after supper the stench of someone who has not used a shower in a long time is so bad that we race out of the room. I walk the town to try and find alternative accommodation to no avail. When I get back I tell the hospitalero in my broken Spanish to smell the room. She wakes him up and he says he did shower. We refuse to sleep there and remove all our stuff. After some prodding she gives us another room and we then share the room with a German guy who according to Robin “sawed the whole Black Forest” that night. None of us had much sleep and by 07:30 we were up and out of the albergue.

We are now in O Pedrouzo and 18km away from Santiago. I am grateful for every step of my Camino. It has been hard but I do not regret one step of my way. I have mixed emotions; looking forward to go home but I’m going to miss the Camino and my friends. How do I explain the Camino and experiences back home? I can tell the stories but I cannot explain what it has done to me. My only purpose each day is to eat, walk and sleep. What is it going to be like not to do that? It never has been the destination of Santiago when I started, now that it’s so close I do wonder about the end.

We are warned about the last day and the busloads of tourists so I will walk into Santiago with no expectations.

I end this with a photo of my Camino fashion trend at night. You will not see me like this in Cape Town.

The walk was beautiful today through forests. It looks like Ireland in a way. Due to it being small 5 house hamlets with farming it continuously smells like cow sh!t. But still beautiful.

Today I nearly had a sense of humour failure after 12,5km and with no bar but constant rain. Luckily laughter is the best medicine and thanks to my walking mates the moment passed. In German they say “pissig” and that’s exactly the say in Dutch and at some point that’s the way I felt. Relentless rain and sh!tty poncho. However grateful to be alive and to have such and experience.

We are in an awesome albergue with a kitchen today in Portomarín and Robin and I cooked tonight for the six of us. We are now sitting in front of the fire with some vino tinto and Robin and Jonas with beer. It’s cold and cloudy but no rain. Life is good!

At this pace we reckon Santiago on Tuesday!

No WiFi connection in any Albergue since my last post. I walked into Sarria this afternoon. In order to get the Compostela you have to walk from Sarria to Santiago. Today was a long haul for us. The “us” are my Camino friends since León; Robin and Jonas from Germany, Martí from Hungary, Frank & Laura from Australia. We make up the four nations.

My two German friends are great as they are old friends and have a great banter and constantly making fun of each other. They are a source of energy and we call Robin the energiser bunny. Give him music and he is off like a rocket. I always seem to walk somewhere in the middle of the two of them. They have also been good for practising my German.

It has become cold since the last couple of days. Yesterday we crossed into Galicia in the mountains. The last two mornings there has been frost and all puddles of water are frozen. It doesn’t really seem to warm up during the day either. Yesterday was another tough day with a lot of climbing but by now I’m used to it.

Despite the cold I sweat a lot and my down jacket had a life of its own.Last night we had a big load of washing and I took the chance to wash it. Thank goodness for central heating and a dryer. It’s good and clean and fresh again.

Walking through the mountains is beautiful and the last two days most of it has been through forests. The size of some of the chestnut and oak trees is mind boggling. They must be hundreds of years old. This area is certainly beautiful and it is for me one of my favourite areas of the whole Camino. I had the best chicken tonight in Sarria with spices which just added to the flavour.

In Pieros we stayed in an albergue that only serves vegetarian food. After the Peregrino “take away” menu as Robin calls it, it was awesome to only have fresh vegetables. Then in Ruitelán we stayed with two Buddhists where the soup was fantastic. All home cooked and using only fresh ingredients; butternut soup, pasta with bacon, salad and home made pudding. The last 2km before Ruitelán we were starving and Robin and Jonas kept on talking about meals their mothers would make. When we walked past the cows in the fields we decided how we would make the best sirlion steak ever.

The Camino has a routine; you get up round 7:30, pack your backpack, have breakfast with good coffee and start walking. Most of the time it’s the distance that matters for the day and not the destination although you have to ensure there is an albergue. Then one walks; mostly in silence early morning, then we might chat and you walk until someone gets tired or we want coffee. Then you have to time lunch so that it doesn’t fall in the Spanish siesta otherwise nothing opens until 16:30. We walk between 7-8 hours per day. Early afternoon I start thinking about the hot shower and my feet want out of the shoes. Then you choose an albergue, choose your bed, shower and rest. The next thought is food and something to drink. By 22:00 most nights it’s lights out and we’re fast asleep.

I cannot believe that I’ve been on the Camino for 27 days and that I now have about 110km’s left of the way. It has been the most amazing experience thus far. Even with all the physical difficulties it has been worth every step. I have met me along the way. Stap jou pad skryf ek in elke gasteboek. I’ve met amazing people along the way and have seen and experienced emotions and vistas. I am grateful!! I think in months to come the impact of the Camino will still make its presence felt.

573km behind me and what a Camino it has been. Today has bad it’s high and lows both figuratively speaking and literally. I passed through the pass of Irago to the highest point of my whole journey, 1505m.

At that high point is where La Cruz de Ferro is; that is where tradition have you leave a stone from your country. The whole morning was misty and I prayed for sunshine and about 500m before I saw the cross the sun came out. I was very emotional as this was where I had to leave my stone that I carried from South Africa. I also had a separate task which weighed heavy on my heart but which was done with Love, praise and gratitude.

After that it became misty again but it was beautiful through valleys but very steep downhill with loose rocks. At times it reminded me of walking down Table Mountain. There are part where one walks through old chestnut trees and because it is autumn there are a lot of fruit on the trees.

We descend all the way to 610m above sea level in Molinasecas where I spend the night. I met two German friends in León; Jonas and Robin who are walking the Camino and met up with them today. We decide to split the costs of the hotel for the night as the one albergue is closed and the open one comes with a reputation.

At supper we meet up with Gleb from Russia, Barry from the USA, Martí from Hungary and Frank and Laura from Australia. It becomes a jolly supper with everyone exchanging Camino stories, wine and beer and don’t forget the lomo.

Before I forget; I found another Gaudí palace in Astorga and this one was open and houses a Peregrino museum. I am glad that I stopped and visited. I am a Gaudí fan!!

Today was a mixed emotions day. Lots of up’s and down’s. I decided to stay the morning in León to visit the Real Basílica de San Isodoro with unrestored frescos over 800 years old. It was certainly worth the rain of the last 6km’s today. It has made more of an impression on me than the painting of the Last Supper of Leonardo da Vinci in Milan.

Julie had an opportunity to spend the night with Lee for €35 at the Parador whic I encouraged her to do. I already made up my mind to leave for Villar de Mazarife. It did mean saying goodbye again which is hard to do.

For the first time since Marcel left I’m now completely alone. I am now going to have to rely on my Higher Self for each step.

The Camino out of the big cities drains the soul as it is traffic and industrial sites. Once I reached La Virgen del Camino the signs were difficult to follow and I had to backtrack twice. Cross under and over highways. All of a sudden I was on the páramo with rich red soil and nothing but birds and endless nothingness. It has been overcast the whole day and as I walk I pray that it doesn’t start raining.

My prayers go unanswered and about 2km’s from Chozas de Abajo it starts to drip. I cover my backpack and put on the poncho and about 20 steps later the heavens open up. I reach the outskirts of yet another no horse town with one bar,Chozas de Abajo, where a stable with an overhang provides some shelter from the torrential downpour where I huddle for half an hour at least hoping for a break so I can reach the one bar I town which is about 500m away.

Eventually this beautiful cat sneaks out from underneath a parked truck into the rain and I think if he/she can do it then so can I. A bent over lady in a doorway points me to the one bar in town where 10 old men are playing cards. They all stop to look at me when I walk in drenched and cold. Cafe con leche por favour is what I utter.

I muster my Spanish and ask the barman if I could phone a taxi. Outside it looks like the midst of a Cape Town winter. I get a number Nd ask the driver who tells me “no posible” but not sure why. Out of desperation I phone Marc and ask him to call the driver. It is nearly 5km’s to my destination. Marc calls me back to say the guy is on holiday and under no circumstances is he willing to drive the 5km’s to pick me up.

Ok, this is a test. Whilst standing under half a metre of shelter under the stable’s roof I think how lucky I am that I don’t live in a shack that leaks when it rains and is not warm. I eat the other half of my sandwich which I left over from breakfast, cover me and my pack and set out. I am grateful that my feet are ok; not fantastic but I walk without pain.

I am rewarded with a light drizzle and towards the west whic is where I’m heading it is clear with the most beautiful sunsets and cloud formations. I end up an hour later in Villar de Mazarife and walk past the first albergue into town. My sixth sense tells me to turn around and I walk back to albergue San Antonio de Pádua where it turns out we are only 5 Peregrinos and Carlos is the cook. We are served a fantastic home cooked meal. There is a hot shower and a clean bed.

Again I am taught a lesson in humility and perseverance.

Die Camino het ‘n reuk. Marcel sal weet wat ek bedoel. Dis asof die reuk in jou klere, slaapsak en rugsak intrek. Dit maak nie saak hoeveel keer jou klere gewas word nie, daai reuk bly. Ek kan dit nie verduidelik nie, maar het vanoggend met Julie vergelyk en daai reuk is daar in haar klere ook.

I’ve become an expert on lancing blisters. I no longer flinch when I either lance or cut them. After a good nights sleep, I felt much better but I woke with the mother of all blisters on my right heel. I realise that I have to listen to my body and after lancing, bactroban, compeed and moleskin I decided to rest in León.

I found a little pension and after a shower I treated myself to a cerveza just outside the cathedral of León. There are lots of familiar Peregrinos in town. Victor (the golden angel of Burgos) greets me with warmth and shows concern about my blisters. He forms part of the small group that includes Athmos from Germany which shared our room in St Jean Pied de Port and who is also here. The Aussie couple which walked the same stretch between Castrojeriz and Frómista are also here.

The Spaniard which I saw this afternoon in Mansilla de las Mulas who is walking the Camino with his dog has just walked into town. She has her own the little backpack strapped to her back. He took out a small camping folding bowl into which he poured water from the fuente. Nothing on the Camino surprises me any more. The tenacity and camaraderie of people is fantastic. Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful people can change the world, indeed it’s the only thing that ever has.

In Villivieco a couple of days ago we stopped on the bridge Parque as the bar across the road was closed. We were in desperate need of cafe con leche as it was cold. A small little bakkie came driving up the road and Jim and I still joked that coffee and soup was going to be served. It stopped and an old man got out with a basket. He proceeded to put a medal round his neck and introduced himself as an amigo of the Camino. He spoke no English but offered us berries, small apples and nuts. Victor came from behind and helped with translation. He called him Pepe which means old man. Pepe had a stamp and wrote a different message to each of us. He translated my name to the Spanish version of Juan and since then my fellow Peregrinos have been calling me Juan. The J is pronounced with a “G”.

I did some exploration of León, went to the Parador of which a section is open to the public as a museum. As you come walking up to the Parador it really is like a scene from the movie “The Way”. They have done a lot to preserve and restore the building when they started to turn it into a hotel in the 1960’s.

I met Lee and Julie in the afternoon as they came into town. Lee has a reservation at the Parador and Julie ends up sharing my room as the albergue is not good and there is an extra bed. Lee invites us for drinks at the Parador and show us the room. It’s like staying in a museum and it’s beautiful.

Afterwards we head to plaza San Martin where the locals hang out and have a great supper at El Tizón.

Today is a return to the Camino for my last stretch to Santiago.

Yesterday morning as the sun came up Lee and Julie were reciting poetry as we walked. One of poets that was quoted was Shams al-Din Hafiz 1320 – 1389. The following poem is quite relevant.

All the Hemispheres

Leave the familiar for a while.
Let your senses and bodies stretch out.

Like a welcomed season
Onto the meadow and shores and hills.

Open up to the Roof.
Make a new watermark on your excitement and love.

Like a blooming night flower,
Bestow your vital fragrance of happiness and giving upon our intimate assembly.

Change rooms in your mind for a day.

All the hemispheres in existence
Lie beside an equator
In your heart.

Greet Yourself In your thousand other forms
As you mount the hidden tide and travel back home.

All the hemispheres in heaven
Are sitting around a fire chatting

While stitching themselves together
Into the Great Circle inside of You

I cannot remember the town name and just don’t have the energy to walk upstairs to get my guide and the. Walk downstairs again. There is no wifi in the room.

The albergue is like a fantastic B&B where we even have clean white towels. I’m sharing with Lee from San Franciso who turned out to be my physio and July from ‘Maritzburg KZN. Both have been Camino angels in the past two days. Lee for giving me physio last night and next to the road and Julie for her quiet encouragement.

Lee promised figs, cheese and vino Tinto and Julie praat met my in Afrikaans. It’s debilitating when the mind is strong but the body has an ailment. Blase het my so gatvol gemaak want dit maak dit so moeilik om te loop. Die Camino leer mens om jou gesonde liggaam te waardeer. En dit leer mens dat ons soveel net aanvaar as normaal.

My liewe vriend David se woorde het vandag oor en oor in my kop gedraai “Love, Praise and Grattitude”. Ek is dankbaar dat my lyf en my kop my vandag hier gekry het. Ek sou dit 25 jaar gelde in die army dag na dag nie gehaal het nie.

Ek het net liefde en dankbaarheid vir elkeen van my vriende en familie wat dag in en dag uit aan my dink en vir my bid. Elkeen van ons moet ons eie Camino loop.

Namaste

Alhoewel vandag net 20km was, was dit ‘n moeilike dag vir my. Marcel het vanoggend gegroet en sy Camino beëindig net om sy Camino terug SA toe aan te pak. Ek stap die Camino de Santiago verder alleen. Ek was baie hartseer toe hy in die reën wegstap bushalte toe en het meer as een traan gehuil. Dankie Ella!

Daarna my rugsak gepak en by die naastenby oop bar my cafe con leche gaan soek voor ek die reën en Camino aandurf. Net toe stap Kathleen en Jim in wat in Michigan bly. Ons het hulle die eerste keer in Los Arcos gesien. Hulle sê ek moet saam me hulle stap en Kathleen gee vir my haar extra dik poncho. Myne van Cape Union Mart sou dit nie vandag oorleef het nie.

Vir die eerste 10km van die dag stap ons in die wit klei grond wat snot glad is en aan jou skoene vasklou. Dit reën onophoudelik. Ons het seker een Uur vandag gehad wat dit droog was. Soos ek die skryf reën dit nog steeds en is dit die voorspelling vir die volgende paar dae. Dankie dat ek Corne se reën broek oorgeneem het by Marcel en dankie vir die poncho. My baadjie was naderhand so nat dat ek hom maar in ‘n sak in my rugsak gedruk het. Thank goodness for central heating want alles is darem nou weer droog.

Die proses sal hom môre weer herhaal. Foto is van die Iglesia de San Martín wat dateer uit 1066 and finest example of pure Romanesque in Spain.

Reën is ‘n konstante metgesel die laaste paar dae. Gister was die enigste droë dag sover. Vandag het ons 90% van die tyd in die reên deur die Meseta gestap. Die Meseta laat mens aan die Swartland dink, koring in die goeie grond en hawermout op die hoër gedeeltes. Partykeer lyk dit asof hulle net met klippe boer.

Dis baie klei grond en agv die reën begin die klei onder jou sole vassit sodat dit later voel jy loop op platforms. Om dit te probeer afskraap het geen sin want 10m verder is dit maar weer dieselfde. Dank die Vader ek het vanoggend vir die eerste keer opgestaan sonder pyn in my regtervoet en skeen en die swelling was minder. So ek het goed gestap anders sou die modder dit nie lekker gemaak het nie.

Elke dorpie op die roete in die Meseta is in ‘n klein vallei: so what goes down must go up again. Gelukkig was meeste van die roete gelyk. Na ure se stap in die reën voel alles klam en my baadjie het naderhand nie meer die water afgestoot nie. My rugsak met sy beskerming het darem droog gebly. Dit was ook nie koud nie. Gisteroggend uit Burgos was dit 3 grade gewees tot ver na 10:00.

Burgos is a beautiful city next to the river Arianzón. The cathedral de Santa María is among the most beautiful of Spain’s many cathedrals and one of its largest after the Giralda in Sevilla. I spent at least an hour and a half walking around with the electronic guide. Although it was a sunny day when we arrived, it was cold in the shade. The Albergue La Casa del Cubo did not open until 14:00 so we found a bar with chairs in the sun where I kicked off my shoes to dry out and had our usual cafe con leche.

We found a bakery where we bought fresh bread out if the oven with cheese and headed in the direction of the albergue. There was already a queue of at least 40 pilgrims waiting for it to open. We ended up standing in the queue for 50 minutes. There was one older lady checking in all the pilgrims and the guy was standing there just counting money and telling us not to wear our shoes. We counted out all our coins to pay the €10 fee for both of us and that caused a fuss with the old lady. Marcel promptly told her “lady; money is money” and after a big sigh it was accepted.

Only to bite us in the ass half an hour later when we wanted to do washing and needed €3 for the washing machine and €2 for the dryer. I used my charming personality to change a €5 note into coins only to be told my the guy that were we not the people who gave them all the change? Making a joke out of it seems to have calmed him down. We had to wait in line as there was only 2 machines of each and an American lady was keeping track of who was next in line. Whilst washing and then drying )30 minutes cycles of each) the power tripped three times and I had to go and ask to have the trip switch switched on again. Lots of sighing again.

The walk out of Burgos and for that matter into Burgos is through the suburbs and it feels like ages until you end up on the country lanes again. Our aim is Hornillos del Camino which has a population of 70. We have heard that the albergue has a reputation of bed bugs so we are aiming for Hostel de sol a sol which only has 7 rooms. By the time we get there the sun has come out although the wind is cold. There is room at the inn and it turns out to be a nice place. We get the key from the grocer lady across the road and I understand there is dinner at 19:00 and breakfast at 08:30. Only to realise at 18:30 it’s breakfast between 7:00 and 8:30. We rush the 2m across the road to buy some groceries and make an excellent pasta with mushrooms and chorizo and tomato salad with olive oil and the customary bread and vino Tinto.

Most of the pilgrims decided not to stay but walk another 5,8km to the next albergue which sleeps 12 or it would be another 10,5km to Hontanas which has more space. As we passed San Bol this morning we realise it’s only the Albergue and nothing else and that it’s closed. Luckily we made the decision to stay the previous afternoon.

Tomorrow I’m heading for Frómista and the weather forecast is more rain. A good night sleep will revive the soul and tired body.

It rained a lot during the night and although overcast when we leave the albergue it’s at least dry. The plan is to head for Logroño and the see after that. Viana Iglesia de Santa María 13th century church with fine recessed doorway in front of which is the tomb of the notorious Cesare Borgia who was killed nearby; initially buried inside the church but his mausoleum was vandalised he was reinterred outside.

Logroño is. University city Nd quite boring when entering the town. I’m surprised that at 10:00 the city still looks asleep. Although shops are opened it seems as if there are no customers. We head to the oficina de tourismo to get a map of the city as Marcel needed a specific shop which we found. An unusual find was the heated park benches outside the oficina de tourismo. We both head into a parfumerie and I walk out smelling like Hugo Boss. It’s great to smell of something else than tigre ball (of in my geval perdesalf). We look for a Café and have our daily cafe con leche.

We decide to head to Navarette 10,6km outside of Logroño. As usual we seem to enter the town when siesta starts. Despite the bad economy the Spanish still feel everything has to close down for at least two hours every afternoon. We buy bread, ham, yamon and sausage for the little grocer across the albergue. The albergue only opens at 13:30 so we head for the church square where we picnic under the plane trees and lie with our feet up. By now my right foot is protesting a lot and when I remove my shoe it looks like a puffer fish.

Despite this I wander into the 16th century church of the Assumption and am again struck by the wealth of the Catholic Church. The front nave of the church is completely covered in gold. It is just too ostentatious for words. After we get our beds for €7 and washing into the machine for €3 it’s shower time and the. We head to tapas bar Deportivo right next to the albergue where we have our first La Rioja chilled red wine and tapas. We end up having the best supper to date in this bar and Antonia the owner makes me promise to send a post card from Cape Town. I’m in bed by 21:00 and immediate fall asleep. Well after another bottle of Vino Tinto and a grappa (insistence by Antonia) no wonder I fall asleep immediately.

It rained again during the night but its dry when we head out. The swelling in my foot has gone down but my ankle is stiff. The first couple of km’s are slow until I warm up. Glad I have my wool from NZ long sleeve shirt. This morning the track leads through vineyards and the infamous red Rioja mud. It clings to my shoes and feels as if your shoes have an extra set of soles. It makes walking treacherous and I’m thankful I have my walking sticks for balance. Later we hear someone slipped and fell and was covered in mud.

As we walk through the vineyard we each pick a bunch of grapes and although small grapes they are very sweet and just what we needed for a little boost. We stop in Nájera for coffee next to the river before heading off again.

Next stop would be Azorfa 5,8km from Nájera. It’s quiet a country road through pine trees. In Azorfa we head for the purpose built albergue which has two beds per cubicle for €7 p/p. It’s great to have our own space and a warm shower after the day walking is one of the best things to do. Rudolf would feel right at home as they’ve used the same wood for cupboards as he used in both his houses. The hospitalero speaks no English but has agreat sense of humor and decided Marcel, Sam and I are worth talking to. By now it seems my ear is getting used to Spanish and although its difficult to speak I seem to get the jist of what some people are saying.

Middag slapies raak ook nou vir my ‘n plesier na ‘n warm stort. My kop raak nou rustiger so ek doen ‘n lekker power nap. Na dit stap ons om die hoek in dorp toe vir wifi by die bar en saam Sam besluit ons om kos te koop en aandete te kook in die albergue. Vir €5 p/p inklusief ‘n bottel lokale vino Tinto is ons goedkoper uit as ‘n daaglikse Menu del Peregrino. Ek’s ook nou al gatvol vir varktjops en chips as hoofgereg. Ons maak ‘n eenvoudige tomatie slaai met uie en olywe en olyf olie en steak en gebakte aartappel. Ons kry goeie kommentaar van ons mede pelgrims op ons kos. Na ete stap ons terug bar toe vir gratis wifi want my op word 80 en ek wou gou Skype om geluk te sê. Dis koud buite en ek is weereens bly ek het besluit om nie my dons baadjie terug te stuur Barcelona toe nie.

Die son kom nou eers teen 08:30 op so teen daai stap ons gewoonlik al ‘n uur. 7,5km verder is ons by Cirueña met sy golfbaan en maze van leë nuwe woonstel geboue en nieuwbouw huise. Dis ‘n regte spookdorp. Vir my voel dit of die 6km verby snel na Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

Die dorp kry sy inspirasie van Saint Dominic of the Road wat meeste van sy lewe gegee het om die paaie en brûe te bou vir pelgrims in die 11de eeu. Die katedraal is ook bekend vir die haan en hen in hulle eie hok binne die katedraal. Google maar vir die storie agter dit. Ilze het my lank terug hiervan vertel en as ek reg onthou was die haan en hen nie in die hok toe hulle daar was nie. So ek het gaan kyk en die haan en hen gesien.

Ons wou onsself treat in die Parador hotel wat in die pelgrims hospitaal is wat dateer uit die 11de eeu maar aangesien Vrydag Spaanse Nasionale dag was is dit lang naweek en volgeboek. Ons eindig saam “ons” groep pelgrims op ‘n pleintjie op waar Marcel en ek pizza wou bestel. Die nors ou man moes vir ons ‘n aanduiding gewees het om te loop want pizzas kon eers oor ‘n Uur bestel word en toe ons twyfel oor wat ons wil drink gooi hy ‘n tantrum. €33 later was dit ‘n bleddie duur pizza. Marcel voel ‘n stuk beter en besluit dat ons moet aanstap na Grañón village. Hy stap aan en ek maak draai by katedraal en sal mekaar kry in die volgende dorp.

Dit was ‘n fout; ek was op toe ek daar aankom en die pizza en sangria het nie bygedra nie. Arme Marcel kon byna nie op sy voete staan nie. Ons beide het gemis om te lees dat die albergue deel van die kerk annex is en net gym matrassies het. My lyf het net geweier maar hoe nou? Daar is nie ‘n ander albergue volgens die boek nie. Stap maar straat op waar ons afkom op Ernesto se huis wat nou ‘n privado albergue is. Lees aparte blog oor die ervaring.

Net na 08:00 daar weg sonder koffie of ontbyt en geen sig van Ernesto. Die wind begin opsteek en ons trek nog warmer aan. Die wind raak net sterker en kouer. Dorp na dorp wat ons deurstap op hierdie Sondag oggend is soos ‘n spook dorp. Daar is niks oop nie en geen mens in sig nie. Die wolke steek op en dit lyk na reën. My regtervoet gee my weer opdraende en ek loop swaar vandag. In Viloria de Rioja is ek gatvol en my moed bietjie gebreek. Ek’s koud en honger en ons sit in die verlate plekke voor ‘n stal uit die wind. Daar ontdek ek slab sjokolade in my backpack wat ontbyt word. Marcel sê ons stap grootpad toe en hike wat nie een van ons twee al gedoen het nie.

Ek’s ook gatvol vir op die teerpad loop, dit maak my voet nog seerder. Ek verkies die grond paaie om op te stap. Ons gaan voort kop teen die yskoue wind en reënsakke oo die rugsakke. Vilamayor del Rio is geen mayor werd nie en net nog ‘n geslote dorp sonder koffie. Voor dit sien ek ek teken wat sê Belorado is 6km weg en al wat ek dink is warm stort. Nou is dit weer verstand op nul en blik op oneindig en stap vir stap.

Ek’s verbaas as ek sien ons stap Belorado binne entrots op myself dat ek deurgedruk het ondanks die pyn. Die eerste albergue in die dorp het al wat ‘n landsvlag wat wapper maar geen pelgrims te sien nie. Ons stap tot in die centrum van die dorp waar daar op die plaza Mayor die eindpunt is van een of ander moutainbike resies. Die enigste oop Café op die hele plein is daar en ek is dank war vir Café con leche en ‘n broodjie ham na 16km op ‘n nugter maag.

Marcel doen herkenning om die dorp en ons besluit hotel Jacobeo is waar ons vanaand ons voete in die lug sit. Na ‘n louwarm stort is ons terug dorp toe vir ‘n bier en tapas. Ons sit en spekuleer waar “ons” groep is toe Marcel vir Cindy en Paige aan die oorkant van die plein gewaar. Dis soos om ou vriende te sien en ons deel stap stories. Dit het voor dit so liggies begin reën maar die hele groep het besluit om aan te stap Tosantos toe wat amper 5km buite die dorp is. Ons was net terug in die hotel toe slaan hier ‘n storm toe met bliksem en reën en hael. Meer as ‘n Uur later kry ek ‘n SMS van Cindy om te sê hulle het dit veilig gemaak na ‘n “near death experience” met die weer. Dis daar waar ek agterkom ek het my skoene op die balkon gelos en hulle is sopnat. Dis ‘n moerse bummer en hulle is nou in die stort en hopelik droog genoeg môre om aan te trek.

Na weer ‘n Menu del Peregrino en heerlike bottel Rioja Tinto is ek nou in die bed en gereed vir ‘n goeie nagrus.Hopelik is my voet weer beter môre vir nog ‘n dag se stap. Dis my “tools of the trade” en ek moet goed kyk na hulle. Ons het nou al 238km onder die voete.

Ons is 3,7km anderkant Santo Domingo de la Calzada waar ons afgerip is v twee pizzas en sangria deur ‘n nors omie vir €33. Beide van ons is moeg en op en die volgende dorp is 3,9km weg. Die auberge is bo-in die kerk en jy slaap op dun gym matrassies. Nie een van ons twee sien kans daarvoor nie. Deurstap is ook nie ‘n opsie nie. Die ander plek is Ernesto se huis waar mens deur die kombuis by die 5 beddens uitkom. Dit lyk gehawend maar wat doen ons. Ook geen taxi nie. Ons besluit maar om te bly en Ernesto sê aandete is om een tafel en die kostes is donativo. Dit beteken donasie. Na stort in ‘n bad so klein ek kan nie eers my gedagtes verander nie voel ek beter. Op die bed lê ek en dink wie is ek om te oordeel en hoekom voel ek ek moet elke aand in relatiewe luukse slaap en eet? Ek het myself nou oorgegee en dit sal wees soos dit moet wees. Oopkop is ek dalk in vir ‘n verrassing.

Estella wasn’t such a fun town. The only nice thing is Iglesia San Pedro. We had a terrible dinner; how badly can you stuff up a salad? Marcel’s paella came out of a packet. We left very early in the morning which turned out a good thing as it became very hot during the day. We walked through plains with no shade most of the day.

The fuente del vino at Monosterio de Irache was not open as we came through before 08:00. It was beautiful though but probably a good thing not to have wine at 08:00 in the morning. It was a pity to see most of the monastery in ruins as there were no more novitiates to support it.

In Azqueta we stopped for breakfast and had great cafe con lache with a sort of toasted sandwich with gamon and cheese. Just before Villa Mayor we past the 13th century Fuente de los Moros which is a beautiful building. We also passed the Itialian couple of which the girl is beautiful but her knee started giving her problems and she was struggling.

After a stop for Aquarius (thanks Marc) and water at the fuente we left the village. Marcel has his earphones in going down a steep path with 2 mountain bikers coming from the rear. They kept shouting to pass but Marcel was oblivious to the world outside his iPod. From a distance I could hear them shouting which was very funny.

We now have a long stretch of nearly 9km through remote farmland and vineyards with no shade and water. I’m really having a tough day today and my right foot is sore. When I eventually take off my shoe it’s swollen like a balloon. Francois gave me the advise to lie with my legs in the air which is exactly what I did after my shower for over an hour and that was the best advise.

We make it to Los Arcos and enter from the north. From this side it looks like a crappy town. Marcel is way ahead of me and I turn off at albergue Austria because I think they stopped there. That was good as that albergue would not be on my recommended list. I find quite a few peregrinos in the delightful town squire where I slog down half a litre of Aquarius. It’s the Spanish version of Energade.

According to the guide book Casa de la Abuela not even 50m from the town square is excellent which turns out to be the case. We were told by the owner we’re not allowed to do our own washing but pay her 50c and she will. I was not going to complain. We shared the room with an older Belgium gentleman which we met the first day from St Jean and he has been walking from Belgium.

Today 10/12 we walked from Los Arcos to Viana. Overcast most of the day with rain drops here and there. It’s now after 22:00 as I write this and there is a massive Highveld like thunderstorm happening. I had my first great day. Although my feet still hurt ag the end of the day I was comfortable walking. In Toros del Rio we visit the exquisite 13th century Iglesia Santo de Sepulcro which is octagonal and small and where Irishman Martin sings for us. Great coffee at the albergue after that before heading out again. Lots of vineyards today as we’re heading towards La Rioja. Our aim for today is Viana where it turns out the main albergue is closed today and Thursday. We have to head back the way we came for the only open albergue but it’s new and clean and we end up having a 6 bed room all by ourselves which is fantastic after having to share with anything between 6 and 130 people. We were also not going to pay €70 for the only hotel in town.

Dinner was great and we shared a table with Paige and her mother Cindy from Boston. Lots of laughter and great company. They’re treating themselves to the hotel for the night. We will see what tomorrow brings.

Left Zubiri early in the morning still dark. We stopped in Larrasoaño for breakfast. By chance it’s the lady that has a cameo roll in “The Way”. She sways between friendly and being very irritated when I asked for a sandwich with cheese. My quads are so stiff today and I’ve developed a small blister on my right heel. Attend to that after breakfast and the two of us head off without Scott and Sam.

Beautiful countryside with enough shade as by now we can feel its going to be a hot day. On the downhills it’s slow going for both of us. I’m again thankful that I brought my walking sticks as they are a great support on both up- and downhill.

We stopped for coffee at a small pizzeria in Parque next to the road for coffee and a break. Here we meet Ricardo from Mexico who is struggling with his knee. That night in Pamplona he was sitting on the washing room floor with an ice pack on his knee. I am grateful that I only have some blisters and don’t have any other injuries.

After coffee there is a cement road next to the path that Marieve tells me is 2km longer but flatter to Pamplona. Marcel is ahead of me listening to music so I have to leg it to catch his attention. We decide to stay on the normal way whic in hindsight was probably not a good decision.

Very steep uphill which inevitably leads to a downhill. I’ve now run out of water and there is not another fuente until Pamplona. None of these are good signs as I drink a lot of water. Luckily Marcel has some left and we hope it would be enough.

We pass through Cruze where there is a festival going on and the streets are very busy. We keep an eye on our backpacks as we’ve been told to watch out for pick pockets. There is traditional dancing in the square but standing still is no longer an option. So we head on for what seemed to me the longest 2,4km into Pamplona. Not having any water is not something I’m going to let happen again.

By now I’ve come to hate walking on asphalt; it’s hard on the feet. Heading into Pamplona we run into Scott again. We have to climb a steep hill to enter the old city through the old town gate which is beautiful. Marcel is ahead of me and has the guidebook. I’m glad we stopped before the gate to see where the albergue is where we’re going to stay as I loose sight of him. I continued up to the cathedral and wait there. About 5 minutes later he appears round the corner and an Irishman directs us to the albergue.

We stay in Jesús y Maria Asoc part of an austere 17thC Jesuit church which sleeps 114 people. That takes some getting used to because bunks are not even a meter apart and you hear everything. Marcel always takes the top bunk and I the bottom. Easy for stiff muscles.

We run into Sam and decided to share a washing machine. Marcel’s red towel coloured all our whites into a soft pink colour. My long trousers where the bottom half zips off are now two tone.

We headed out for gin and tonics opposite the cathedral and in Spain they don’t know what tot is; our waiter decide we needed more gin than tonic. We also saw a wedding procession heading into the church and after the ceremony the bells were rung.

There was some festival in Pamplona as we headed down to Piazza del Castillo for dinner. €17 for a three course dinner including a bottle of Navarra red wine. I had a great squid salad which would have been enough food, but there is still a sirlion and pudding to come. Lights out at 23:00 and I cannot fall asleep. Not a good night for me.

We head out at same time again and decide to get coffee on our way out of town. Somewhere in a suburb we find an open bakery with coffee. Sam is with us this morning as we head out of town. We are heading for Puente la Reina which is 21km away but we have to climb from 400m to 700m to cross Alto del Perdón. The hill of forgiveness. It doesn’t sound like much but believe me it’s steep.

On top of the hill is the momento peregrino. It’s a wrought iron representation of medieval pilgrims, heads bent to the west wind. Downhill is very treacherous due to loose rocks. We thought we would detour to Eunate but in Muruzábel we opt not to add another 2,8km to our route. It turns out to be a good decision as the Eunate church is closed.

In Óbanos we stop in the cloister of the parish church where there is a fountain with fresh water. Two Spanish ladies are also there and they crack nuts which they picked up along the way. Walnuts grow next to the road and are ripe for the picking. Twice she brings us nuts. It’s these small gestures from other people on the Camino that brings a smile to your face.

We make it to Puenta la Reina and stay at the albergue run by the Padres Reparadores. I’m very sore and tired but a shower and good rest makes me feel better. We limp off into the beautiful town centre where we have a beer. Real Madrid and FC Barcelona are playing football so evry bar has the football on. Dinner is fresh tomatoes with olive oil and mains Paella. By now I’m so tired I can hardly keep my eyes open and its barely 21:00.

I’ve decided I’m carrying too much weight and throw out at least 2,5kg. We made a packet which we sent to Marc for €10 which weighed nearly 5kg. My sandals, two pair of shorts and two shirts plus small stuff. It’s amazing after 4 days on Camino how I’ve realised I don’t need all the stuff I packed. I’m sure I might loose more along the way. My backpack feels so much better. Less chafing on my hips. I think I tend to tighten the right side more. Another lesson learnt.

Today 8/10/2012 we took a rest day and no walking. We are in Estella and have just taken it easy the whole day. Tomorrow we are planning to Los Arcos which is 21km away.

The Camino is harder on my body than I thought it would be. As a result I have to be mentally stronger to push on. It’s starting to feel like a real pilgrimage. I’m just praying my feet will stay strong as they are the tools I have to use every day.