All posts by Johann Ebersohn

I created this blog when I started my Camino de Santiago experience. Now it is time to start evolving

Barcelona

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We were met at Barcelona airport by Marc & Laura. Waiting at the luggage carousel we met fellow South Africans – Corli & Janus who are going on a cruise. Marc assisted them with directions to their hotel. Geniet die Med julle twee & sien julle in SA.

After a well deserved shower we had a beer & then Marc took us on a guided tour. As he lives round the corner from La Sagrada Familia we took a walk round the church. It’s amazing to see this cathedral still being built and all with money donated.

From there it was a 15 minute walk to the old town Born according to Laura. I’m sure Marc’s maps was not functional (joke Marc) but it took us more than 15 minutes to get there. It was however great to walk through areas of Barcelona that I would not get to see as a tourist. A local guide makes it much more interesting. We walked into the Santa Maria del Mer and size of these cathedrals that are 100’s of years old always amaze me. After wondering around and just soaking up the city, we sat down for a beer. Our dinner plans were a bit unorganised but that was our indecision. Marc told us about his favourite little restaurant that serves sirloin prepared in the Catalan way, but also gave us the option of tapas. We chose the latter, but sitting down with our beer Marc said on the Camino we are going to have lots of Tapas. We then decided to opt for the sirloin. Marc called the restaurant to make the reservation but little did we know that he made a reservation last week, then cancelled when we chose tapas only having to call again. Luckily for us FC Barcelona was playing football so the restaurant was not busy.

At 21:40 we ended up at Restaurant de Gràcia – Cal Boter. Cal means house and Boter means barrel maker. By this time we’ve only had aero plane food for the past 24 hours and we were starving and a bit tired. Marc ordered starters with mushrooms in foi sauce and a grilled cheese which is served with the ever present bread. A red wine from Rioja was well deserved. Mains we ordered medium sirloin with a mushroom foi sauce which is served with rice. It is a great little local restaurant well recommended. With compliments to the owner and Marc translating he told us that his brother who likes to fish has been in Namibia for business where he did some fishing.

Back home we repacked our backpacks and checked everything. Both Laura and Marc were “concerned” about the weight of my backpack. That off course got me worried which resulted in checking off the check list twice. In the end Laura decided its the size of my backpack as only have the things which I need. Marcel’s backpack is smaller than mine and as a result also weighs less. When Marc saw the size of my sleeping bag he gave it one look and lent his to me which is at lease two times smaller than mine. That saved me at least 500g and gave me space in my backpack. Marc made reservations on the train to Pamplona leaving Barcelona at 09:30. Another glass of wine and eventually off to bed after midnight by which time the two of us were sleeping on our feet.

Up early, shower, last check of packs and then breakfast downstairs before heading off to central station together with all the people off to work so the Metro was quite busy. When we got tot the station to have our tickets printed there was nothing on our reservation. When I checked the email which was sent by Renfe we realized Marc made the reservation for 07:30. Thank goodness for a Catalan speaker and within no time using his charms we got ourselves booked on the 09:30 train.

As I write this we are on the train going through the Catalonian country side on our way to Pamplona and from there we’re planning to go to Rondesvalles today.

It was so good to spend time with Marc & Laura. Their hospitality and generosity opening up their home to us is much appreciated. Thank you for sharing your space and taking off from work to fetch us and then show your home time to us. Gracias Hasta

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Hier zijn wij dan

Wij zijn veilig aangekomen op Amsterdam Schiphol. Die vlug was nie vol nie en ons het altwee goed geslaap. Die vrou wat my aan boord bedien het was so vriendelik en het belanggestel in wat ons gaan doen. Die was diens met ‘n glimlag en maak so ‘n vlug altyd beter.

Helaas is die Chocolate Block Bottel wyn wat ek vir Marc gekoop het op OR Tambo afgeneem deur die Koninklijke Marechausee, so oor my head blade skeerroom. Ek het nooit daaraan gedink dat dit ingecheck saam met rugsak moes gewees het om veilig in Spanje aan te kom nie. Die wyn mag nie vanaf ZA met ‘n aansluit vlug die EU in nie. Die ander goed kan ek vervang, dis wel jammer oor die wyn vir Marc.

Dis vreemd om weer in Nederland te wees. Dit was byna 10 jaar van my lewe gewees en dit voel ‘n leeftyd gelede. Dis vreemd om soveel Nederlands om my te hoor en tog voel dit thuis. Ek is wel bietjie geroes om te praat, maar dit kom vanself weer reg. Ons sit nou in die Diners Club besigheidsklas lounge en wag vir ons vlug om 14:00 na Barcelona.

I cannot wait to meet Marc in Barcelona and experience something of Barcelona through the eyes of a local. Now that we’re in Europe the Camino has a different reality to me. We’re on the same continent. Now I’m very excited.

OR Tambo

Ons sit nou in die vertreksaal van OR Tambo internasionale lughawe. Dis ironies want daar is 21:30 net mooi niks oop nie. Al die besigheidsklas sitkamers, meeste winkels en restaurante. Eish sorry we are closed. En jy betaal R86 v 2 Gin & Tonics. Ek kan maar net lag. So KLM hier kom ons v ‘n G&T en skop my skoene uit. Ek is nou reg hiervoor.

In anticipation

So, dis ‘n paar uur voor ek uit Kaapstad vertrek om die Camino te begin. Alles is gepak en weer ‘n keer gepak. Die laaste rondskarrel was vanoggend gewees. Nou is dit in afwagting van wat voorlê, so om dit minste te sê, dis nou nervous energy. Ek weet as ek eers op die vliegtuig is, dan sal ek rustig raak.

Ek het ‘n heerlike naweek by die Winterberg Mountain Inn gehad. Baie dankie Karien en Reint vir julle gasvryheid en die ander weet wie julle is. Dit was die perfekte Bon voyage voor ek vetrek. Ek waardeer julle inset en bydra wat tot gevolg het dat ek vanaand vertrek.

Ek het vanoggend “my” reënboog laag oor die stad gehad. Dan kan mens nie anders as om te smaail nie.

So as I start this epic journey I would like to leave you with something to ponder. The Desiderata by Max Ehrmann.

Go placidly amidst the noise and haste, and remember what peace there may be in silence. As far as possible without surrender be on good terms with all persons. Speak your truth quietly and clearly; and listen to others, even the dull and the ignorant; they too have their story.
Avoid loud and aggressive persons, they are vexatious to the spirit. If you compare yourself with others, you may become vain or bitter; for always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself.
Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans. Keep interested in your own career, however humble; it is a real possession in the changing fortunes of time.
Exercise caution in your business affairs; for the world is full of trickery. But let this not blind you to what virtue there is; many persons strive for high ideals; and everywhere life is full of heroism.
Be yourself. Especially, do not feign affection. Neither be cynical about love; for in the face of all aridity and disenchantment it is as perennial as the grass.
Take kindly the counsel of the years, gracefully surrendering the things of youth. Nurture strength of spirit to shield you in sudden misfortune. But do not distress yourself with dark imaginings. Many fears are born of fatigue and loneliness.
Beyond a wholesome discipline, be gentle with yourself. You are a child of the universe, no less than the trees and the stars; you have a right to be here.
And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should. Therefore be at peace with God, whatever you conceive Him to be, and whatever your labors and aspirations, in the noisy confusion of life keep peace with your soul. With all its shams, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful.
Strive to be happy.

T -5 dae

Nog 2 werksdae en totaal 5 dae voor ons op die vliegtuig klim Barcelona toe. My “to do” lysie tik ek stelselmatig af maar nes ek dink ek het aan alles gedink, dink ek weer aan iets wat op die lysie gesit moet word. Wel teen Maandagoggend is hy of klaar of wat daar op is, is glad nie meer belangrik nie.

Dit reën op die oomblik in Kaapstad en dan kan ek nie help om te wonder hoe die weer op die Camino gaan wees nie. Daar kan ek niks aan verander nie, so “what will be, will be”.

Ek het vanaand die klere en dinge wat saamgedra moet word op die bank uitgepak. As dit op so hopie lê dan lyk dit min genoeg, maar pak dit nou in daai rugsak en skielik is hy vol. Die een advies wat almal vertel en wat mens orals lees is dat jou rugsak nie meer as 10% van jou liggaamsgewig moet wees nie. So klim ek toe maar met gepakte rugsak en al op die skaal en wonder bo wonder is ek net onder die 10%. Selfvoldaan loop ek bietjie rond in die huis met rugsak op en skielik besef ek my fleece en reënbaadjie is nou net gewas en moet ook nog ingepak word. En my bladder vir water is ook leeg. So daar gaan die mooi pak en net onder die 10% bly.

In the “A pilgrims guide to the Camino de Santiago” by John Brierley writes

You will bring too much; everyone does. Be prepared to give away, leave behind or post back items you don’t need and notice which option you choose, why and at what stage of the journey.

I thought I’ve been smart in my selection of essentials that will be going with, so I will let you know what I don’t need and what I do with it at what stage of the journey.

Ek weet wel dat my rugsak minder weeg as wat hy geweeg het tydens die Otter trail. Die verskil is die Otter trail is 5 dae en die Camino is minimum 35 dae. Die gewig van die rugsak is dalk ook ‘n metafoor vir die emosionele baggasie wat mens saamdra. Ek is glo sterk dat ek daarvan ook op verskillende plekke op die Camino van ontslae gaan raak.

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Philadelphia

I went to Philadelphia today, not the one in the US of A, but the little dorp close to Durbanville. I’ve lived in Cape Town for 10 years and I’ve never been there. What a hidden gem so close to Cape Town. In the past three weeks different people have told me about Philadelphia. I made a breakfast date with Rina who lives in the area and thought today is the day to go there. I also wanted to go to Magic Minerals in Philadelphia and it was the perfect opportunity. Little did we know that everything is closed on a Monday.

Everything except Magic Minerals and the reason being they are busy with some renovations. I was looking for two specific stones which I found. At least one I knew I had to get and the other one found me. They are going on the Camino with me.

When we were ready to pay the owner said she had a bigger stone for the one that found me but when I told her the reason for picking the smaller stone, she told me that doing the Camino is on her bucket list and could I please come back after the trip for coffee and to share my experience. She then told me she wanted to give me something to take with and went into the shop, picked a stone and gave me a Selenite to take with. I am amazed at the generosity of people and what I am given as tokens. And how each one has a meaning which pertains to my journey. A big hug later and I was sent off with love.

Miracles happen every day but we should just be open to recognise them.

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Afrika

Ek is vandag Langebaan toe gewees. Op pad terug het ek besluit om deur die Weskus Nasionale Park te ry. As mens daar ry en jy sien al die fynbos en die daisies wat nou blom dan kan mens nie help om gelukkig te voel nie. Ek het Wimpie se dak afgehaal en wind in die hare (sure) gery met son op my gesig.

That’s when it hit me that just over a week I will be in Spain starting the journey of a lifetime. Whilst walking on the beach in Kraalbaai I realised walking is what I’m going to do every day for at least a month. For a moment I wondered why I’m doing this? However walking on that beach with no one else around made me realise it’s for the peace and quiet and connecting with Mother Nature but most importantly to connect with myself.

Wat ek wel besef het is dat ek Suid Afrika gaan mis, maar ek dra wel happy memories saam. Dit gaan awesomeness wees soos ‘n vriend altyd sê.

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Hola!

Ek vertrek 01 Oktober 2012 Spanje toe om die Camino de Santiago te begin. Ek gaan saam met my goeie vriend Marcel hierdie pelgrimsreis aandurf. Ons praat al meer as ‘n jaar hieroor en dit het al begin toe David nog gelewe het. Beide Van ons pak dit aan vir ons eie persoonlike redes.

Die uiteindelike beplanning het letterlik binne twee weke gebeur. Alles het net skielik in plek geval hiervoor. Dit is asof alles net gelei het tot hierdie punt waar dit die regte tyd is vir my om dit te doen.

Ek is van plan om hierdie blog te gebruik om my ervarings neer te skryf. Ek is geensinds ‘n skrywer nie, so dit sal in my eie skryf styl gebeur.

Although Afrikaans is my mother tongue, I will be mixing my musings in both languages. That way my non Afrikaans speaking friends will be able to follow my blog.

Groeten,
Johann