Darling, flowers, slow beer and dirt roads

The best way to experience the open road is on a motorbike.  You feel and see the details of nature. This past weekend was all about bikes, gravel roads, flowers and friends. Our friend Suné suggested that we go to Darling on Saturday as they have the flower show. The flower show was not our highest priority, but we didn’t need much convincing to take the bikes and ride. We took the N7 North and then the R27. At the sign to the Groote Post wine estate, we took the dirt road to the farm. It’s 10 km’s on this well maintained gravel road before one reaches the farm. I currently have a knobbly on the front wheel of my BMW, but the standard issue back wheel. The back wheel will get a knobbly in the next two weeks which I’m really looking forward to. The back wheel has no grip and as a result I took it relatively easy. Stoof on the other hand has knobblies and clings to the road and Christoff always has fun off-road.

GS in flowers
GS in flowers

It was on this piece of road that we saw the first wild flowers. Groote Post is a great wine estate and their Old Man’s Blend red wine is definitely a favourite. We took some time out to walk around the farm and took some photo’s but decided not to stay for a wine tasting. Where the gravel road joins the R307, we turned towards Darling. On the distant mountains, the peaks were covered with snow from the cold front which hit the Western Cape during the previous week. We were able to turn off into a conservation area with loads of wild flowers. This really brought out the photographers amongst us. Christoff could be seen in his familiar photographers pose, close to the ground searching for the best flower pictures. The challenge is that in every square meter the variety of flowers is so great, that one is sometimes not sure where to point the lens. Suné bought a macro lens from instaLens which connects to the back of any smart phone. It was amazing to see the details on the flowers she was able to capture with her phone.

Flower conservation
Flower conservation

When we had enough and the hay fever set in, we took the road into Darling. This small town in the farming community of the West Coast was put on the map by the South African satirist Pieter-Dirk Uys who performs most of his shows as Evita Bezuidenhout at Evita se Perron. We stopped to have a look at Evita se Perron but by then breakfast was long forgotten and a late lunch was at the order of the day. Darling is also known for the Darling Slow Brew beers. We picked the first place we saw, which turned out to have Darling Slow Brew beers, but the food menu left a lot to be desired, which is a pity. The town makes its money from tourism and there are not a lot of places to choose from, so one would expect better quality. We should have driven slightly further along the main road to where the Darling Slow Brew tasting room is situated with a buzzing restaurant next door.  Add that to the bucket list for a next visit.

We were not yet in the mood to return to Cape Town and were searching for another gravel road. We took the R307 out-of-town and just where the town ends with the graveyard on the left, there is a gravel road to the right. We had no idea where the road would take us, but it was not the destination that mattered, but the ability to be on the back roads with no other traffic. It turned out to be a great decision as the landscape was varied with wetlands in the area with wild waterblommetjies, which is an edible flower and a delicacy in the Western Cape, to flamingoes, sheep and cattle. The gravel road was not technical at all with some short sandy sections which made the BMW slide a bit, and me chewing the seat, and we even had to cross a little river, but just being out there and alive puts smiles on our faces.

Flamingoes
Flamingoes

When we stopped to take pictures of the flamingoes we were immediately “attacked” by small little flying insects. Although they did not sting they gathered in a cloud round your face and got into every opening. I had to make a pit stop and both Christoff and Suné laughed at my antics trying to keep the insects at bay whilst going about my business. They were so annoying that we quickly moved on but not before Christoff got this amazing picture of the flamingoes.

Pitstop
Pit stop

It turned out that this road eventually joins the R45 after about 30km’s where we turned right towards Malmesbury and the N7 back to Cape Town. What we did discover is that there are quite a few gravel roads in that area to explore in future.

Johann, Suné and Christoff
Johann, Suné and Christoff

 

 

 

 

On Sunday we took Daniel and Johanna to Blaauwklippen market situated on the R44 towards Stellenbosch. On Sundays they have a family market and our friend Saskia was there on Sunday manning the Flamkuchen stall.

Pony on a tea break
Pony on a tea break

A lovely day under the trees, sharing a Flamkuch and beers from CBC & Jack Black. But no amount of food and beer could overcome the disappointment on Christoff’s face after finding out that the pony was on an extended tea break….

We then headed into Stellenbosch which is the second oldest European settlement in the Western Cape after Cape Town and known for its wine region, as well as being the home to Stellenbosch University. We tend to go to one of the restaurants on Church Street and this Sunday was no exception where we sat outside on the terrace of Java Café. Affordable prices as the Café is frequented by students, and the food is good. It was great Spring weather sitting under the old oak trees and watching Stellenbosch life go by.

We had the same feeling on Sunday after lunch as on Saturday, we did not feel like heading directly back to Cape Town. We took Helshoogte Pass towards the small town of Pniel (the name always creates a chuckle with Afrikaans speaking people) and then the R45 which either heads to Franschhoek, or towards Paarl. We turned towards Paarl and took the first gravel road but it quickly ended in a dead-end at Bien Donne wine farm. We then headed in the direction of Babylonstoren in the search of more gravel roads as our pillion riders got a small taste of gravel riding and wanted to experience some more. A short gravel road between Babylonstoren and the R45 just wet their appetites even more and we decided to go to Paarl rock and the Afrikaanse Taalmonument (a monument to celebrate the birth of the Afrikaans language and the continued existence of the language). We got there just before 17:00 and the monument was closed already. Christoff remembered the gravel road leading into the Paarl mountain reserve which we immediately sought out and took. There were quite a few mountain bikers and normal cars on the sometimes very narrow road.

The Guys
The Guys

Coming round one corner where the road was quite narrow, Daniel and I had an encounter with a 4×4 which was on my side of the road as the driver had swung out for pedestrians. I had to break hard and squeeze past the cliff face to miss him and with my sleek back tyre, the bike slid left to right, but we pulled through without an incident. Moments like these the adrenaline is pumping and you feel very much alive. All credit goes to my pillion rider Daniel who was on his first gravel road bike riding experience and he stayed calm and trusted me all the time.

We took the road until the top gate and just admired the view of Paarl rock on the one side and through the valley with Paarl lying below and the Du Toitskloof mountains in the distance. With the sun setting we headed West on the N1 back to Cape Town where we were just in time to enjoy sunset from the Sea Point Promenade.  Never a view to get bored with, what an amazing sunset after an awesome day.

Sea Point sunset
Sea Point sunset

To end off the day we rode to Camps Bay and sat on the terrace of the Grand Café with a glass of wine. Days like these shows us a glimpse of what accepting a life of less could mean. Stepping off the treadmill and just following your passion.

Short Peninsula bike trip

13 September 2014

Oranjezicht City Farm
Oranjezicht City Farm ©Johann Ebersohn

It is Saturday morning with lots of sun and 21ºC, perfect for riding our motorbikes. Christoff and I decide to do a bike trip as we have not had a chance to ride our bikes in a while. We had a great start to the day with an Americano and Cappuccino from Tamboers Winkel to kick start our shopping at the Oranjezicht City Farm.  We just wanted to ride and see where the road would take us. We decided to invite Johanna & Alina along as pillion riders. Both are relatively new in Cape Town, and for them a road trip on the bikes anywhere would be an experience.

Christoff and Johanna ©Johann Ebersohn
Christoff and Johanna
©Johann Ebersohn

We fetched Johanna & Alina in Sea Point and then started along the Atlantic Seaboard in the direction of Hout Bay. We decided to stop at the Hout Bay Harbour market which has a great vibe and good food to choose from. As with the Biscuit Mill neighbour-goods market, one tends to find the same food vendors, but there are tasting experiences like the craft beers.

Beer truth
Beer truth

As we were there after 14:00 on a Saturday afternoon, it was no longer that packed with people, which makes for a more relaxing experience as one can stroll around and find a spot to sit and relax and do some people watching.

We continued our trip over Chapmans Peak drive, which is one of the most beautiful roads in the world. Snaking 9 km between Hout Bay and Noordhoek, it clings to the rocky coastline from 593m at the highest point, to sheer cliff drops down at the sea below. The winding road makes it an excellent experience for a biker… Riding with a motorbike on this road gives you an entirely different experience, with the sun on your face, the smell of the ocean, you hear the waves crash against the rocks, wind in your face.

Neither Johanna nor Alina have done Chappies before, so we cruised up to the top viewing point at a leisurely pace, giving them the opportunity to take in the views. The views from the top are always spectacular and it is great to watch the reaction of friends when they experience it for the first time. It is times like this that I realise that I live in the most beautiful city in the world.

Hout Bay from Chappies
Hout Bay from Chappies ©Johann Ebersohn

Again we spotted no whales in the bay or off shore. We did encounter three guys on two motorbikes whom have travelled from Wales across Africa to South Africa. When I see that I get the urge to take the motorbike and travel, and then we start talking about possible adventures in future.

There is only one thing that makes a dream impossible to achieve: the fear of failure.
Paulo Coelho, The Alchemist

Taking an easy drive towards Noordhoek, one comes round the corner and Long Beach stretches ahead with what looks like an endless white beach. Lots of people on the beach as well as horse riders. We decided not to stop in Noordhoek, but head on to Kalk Bay for a coffee.

All images ©Christoff Jansen
Longbeach ©Johann Ebersohn

Kalk Bay is an old fishing village on the False Bay coast between Fish Hoek and Muizenberg. It still has a working fishing harbour where one can buy fresh fish, but has evolved to become an artistic village. Lots of art and antique shops with great coffee shops and restaurants as well. One of the most well known spots has to be the Brass Bell which is located on the other side of the railroad tracks, but built right on the rocks with the waves constantly breaking against the walls. There are two tidal pools which has seen quite a few people end up in the water in the summer months. We found a table right against the break wall with views all the way across False Bay to the Helderberg Mountains.

Whale Breach
Breaching whale

We had the best seats in the house this afternoon, as the next moment we had a whale breach about a 100m off shore. It just kept putting on a show for us and we soon realised there were two of them close to shore. We just had to wait patiently as it kept on breaching every couple of minutes to great applause of the all the patrons. I am always amazed at how these massive mammals are able to “graciously” lift themselves out of the water. I wonder if they were mating as tails were lifted out of the water, then a big fin and then breaching. It was just as entertaining watching my friends poised with their cellphones and camera trying to capture the moment for social media. Eventually the whales swam further away and the show was ended with another applause.

Whale spotting
Whale spotting ©Johann Ebersohn

Christoff and I decided that we would head towards Constantia Nek, through Hout Bay and catch the sunset somewhere along the road back to Cape Town. We took Boyes drive towards Constantia and followed the Constantia wine route past Groot Constantia towards Constantia neck before heading into Hout Bay. From there we took the coastal road towards Camps Bay. As we came across Suikerbekkie, the sun was just about to set and we turned off towards Llundudno. We arrived on the beach just in time to catch the last glimpse of the sunset.

A great afternoon with friends on the motorbikes was ended with a braai on the “stoep” with some great red wine from Groote Post. An awesome road trip of total 111km.

West Coast National Park

7 September 2014

Wild Flowers
Wild Flowers

Flower season on the West Coast of South Africa is at a peak. The flower season is normally from beginning of August to end of September. We decided to take Jonas, Robin, Christoff and his mother to the West Coast National Park on the R27. This national park is just over an hours drive from the mother city which makes it an easy day trip. The national park was established in 1985 and comprises 32,000ha. It was a beautiful morning in Cape Town when we left, not too hot but sunny so we would be sure to see the flowers open.

A guide to viewing the flowers.

On the way we stopped for coffee at the West Coast Farm stall. Although the service is friendly and one can buy the usual stuff from “biltong” (South African cured meat) to “biskuit”, the food menu is not that inspiring.

After a coffee break we moved on to the West Coast National Park entrance off the R27. We were not the only people who decided to make use of the great weather and for the first time since I’ve been visiting the park, we sat in a queue that started on the R27. Entrance to the park is R65 p/p for South African citizens and between R85 – R120 for international visitors. Christoff and I made use of our Wildcards which gave us free access to the park. During the flower season from 01 August to 30 September each year, the Postberg area in the park is open to the public. We immediately headed in that direction and saw our first leopard tortoise on the way with the usual ostriches dotting the landscape.

Heading down to Kraalbaai
Heading down to Kraalbaai

The lagoon lay blue in the sun and it always reminds me of somewhere in Greece. As we headed into Postberg it was a well maintained gravel road all the way through the reserve. This road is accessible by any vehicle and you don’t need a 4×4. However be prepared that your car will be very dusty and if it rained, covered in mud. Although we drove with the car this time, motorbikes are allowed into the National Park and it makes for a great day trip.

The best is to start at Postberg and do the drive through that area of the park before doing the other areas. We saw enough flowers and Christoff took the time to photograph some of these. Our German friends saw their first wild Bontebok, Eland, Flamingo’s, Gemsbok, Kudu and Zebra. And to top it all the small Dung Beetle as well. There are many beaches and areas to explore in the park and in off-season chances are one would have some of these to yourself.

Picnic
Picnic

We packed a picnic lunch and decided to stop off at Kraalbaai for a picnic on the beach next to the lagoon. The azure blue lagoon stretched in front of us and looked very inviting for a swim, although the temperatures were not summer yet. However we did brave the water and found crabs and even a lone jellyfish in the shallow water.

 

After a great afternoon we headed back to Cape Town with the ever-present Table Mountain looming on the horizon.